The Jameos Night: a binnacle of sensations

It’s almost eight, and I’m driving along the Arrieta-Orzola road. I’ve always liked this stretch of the island: heading north, with volcanoes on the left and the sea on the right. I arrive at my destination a couple of minutes late, but just in time to watch the sun bid farewell to the island, slipping between the mountains, leaving behind a trail in the sky like a warm watercolor.

I approach the main entrance of Jameos del Agua with that feeling of having arrived at a special place. A place where magic exists. I confirm my reservation at the ticket counter and step into the center through one of my favourite areas: the stone stairs, surrounded by vegetation and with views of the lake, leading me to the restaurant. And as I descend, I pause almost without realizing it to enjoy a wide view of the surroundings, lush with beauty.

I continue into the restaurant, and something charming happens: the first voice I hear is, precisely, that of César Manrique. And under a wonderful acoustic, soft music occasionally blends with several phrases from Manrique that, without a doubt, every Lanzarote native will recognize.

I’ve only been inside for a few moments, but I already know for sure that Los Jameos Noche is one of the most interesting things to do in Lanzarote to experience something extraordinary, beyond the ordinary. I meet up with my companion, and although a delicious aroma can be sensed from the kitchens, we decide to wait a few minutes to sit at our favourite table, with incredible views of the Jameo Chico.

I’m not used to visiting this centre at night, so I take my time evaluating it from this new perspective: it may seem strange not to feel the sun’s rays through the impressive volcanic tunnel, but I have the sense that, at night, the atmosphere is even more special and mysterious.

All the tables are occupied, including a small group of foreigners celebrating an intimate wedding. I see many couples, travellers, and families, creating a very diverse atmosphere, yet all united by the same philosophy: a deep respect for the place.

Finally, we’re guided to our table and informed about the details of the reserved menus, which will be accompanied by volcanic Malvasía white wine from the island and a little water. I can’t help but feel deeply fortunate as I taste my favourite white wine in the world, gazing, absorbed, at the incredible work of César.

And as I immerse myself in the experience, I (almost) forget about the meal we’re about to receive. I’ve reserved a vegan menu with a variety of flavours that are not easy to find on the island, and I can’t wait to try them.

The first dish surprises me with its presentation: I’m facing a tartare of avocado, tofu, tomato, fruit, and sesame. The truth is, its shape is so perfect that it feels almost a shame to ruin it, but my fork takes on a life of its own to eagerly savour the first bite. The sensation is very fresh, followed by a range of sweet and sour flavours that the diner has the pleasure of discovering.

The second dish is a delight for the senses: a mushroom and asparagus risotto with coconut milk, curry essence, and toasted pine nuts. Perhaps my opinion isn’t the most impartial — given my obsession with anything that includes coconut and curry — but it is, without a doubt, a delicious dish for any palate; just like the tartare, it pairs perfectly with the Malvasía wine.

The sweetest moment of the evening arrives, which, for me, takes the form of a fruit salad made with local fruits, and for my companion, a succulent chocolate brick. With a sense of excitement, we walk along the lake from the Jameo Grande to the Jameo Chico and head to the bar, where the musical group entertains the evening with a live concert.

I sit down to listen, right on the stairs, where I have a perfect frontal view of the stage with the volcanic tube behind it. The music selection ranges from typical Canarian isas to various international classics, all played with a distinct personal style.

Then I hear the first chords of one of my favourite songs in the world, Hotel California, and I smile as I surrender to the magic of this space, where light and shadows intertwine through a thousand reflections between the lake and the volcano.

I move closer to the bar, which I think is one of the most beautiful in the centres. I stop for a moment to appreciate how it is literally embedded in the volcanic rock, in a kind of cave with a suggestive gastro-bar personality.

Then I become friends with a playful waiter who quickly recalls with nostalgia the figure of Manrique, the admired artist, former boss, but also, and above all, his friend. He tells us he misses the uniforms César designed for each of the centres, with the Jameos being his clear favourite: an orange shirt and a daring yet elegantly tailored white trouser.

We end the evening walking step by step towards the pool. The moon has returned after hiding for a few days, and its image, along with the stars above the iconic palm tree that stretches boldly over the pool, is, at this very moment, simply sensational.

I say goodbye to Jameos del Agua as I climb the stairs, sliding my fingers along the spiral handrail, pausing for a few seconds to look back and appreciate this true visual poem that César created, and that today welcomes Canary Islanders, foreigners, and locals alike, giving us the chance to indulge, savour, and immerse ourselves in an experience full of his essence.

Author: Mercedes Parrilla